PS Placeable 3k build guide

Ok before we begin lets assume you purchased from us, and that you have followed the disassembly guide leading you to this page next.  All the parts you need for this build are: A PSP, 1 fourteen pin, ten pin, seven pin, four pin FFC cables. The BT PCB V2, 3mm LED (any color you want we give blue ones) four M3x20 screws, eight 2x6mm magnets, top, middle, bottom  printed shell, PCB bracket, 3 shell buttons, 4 rubber feet. You will also need some cable for cutting and soldering in the next steps unless you purchased a fully soldered kit. You can skip the next few steps then. We do not include loose conductors, feel free to use any that you like. Everything else is included in the kits you can. buy from us.

We will be cutting the PSP power cable and splicing it to the board. Its important you know which cable is positive and negative. You can use a multimeter or your cable may be labeled already like mine is. Its always best to check though. 

We need both ends of the power cable separated. So lets cut at the center. if yours is all black keep track of which side is positive and negative.  

Solder wires to all four ends we have cut and stripped. I use heat shrink to seal these joints when I am done. It may be easier to have individual conductor wires instead of keeping them together like i have below on the right. Make sure you extend the wires from both halves, you are extending 4 wires in total.

Once all four cables have been extended we can heat shrink them and tin the other sides getting them ready to solder to the board.

Take your two positive wires you will have one connecting to the yellow power in part and the tan power to PSP part. Take the positives from each of these and solder them to the PWR pad next to the micro USB port.

Take the other two wires and solder them to the GND pad below the ESP. Set these wires to the side.  

Here is a better picture of what the splicing should look like with both parts. 

You can optionally remove the LED from the board and solder wires to an external LED. We will include the LED when you buy with us. Our shells also have a location to mount this external LED use some wire and solder positive to the bottom pad and negative to the top pad. After removing the surface mount LED. The positive wire goes to the long leg of the included LED and the negative goes to the short leg.

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If you chose to do this please make sure you remove the surface mounted LED, the BT board is only wired to have one LED.

Below you can see the ribbon cables in the connectors on the BT board. When putting together a 3K you use the 3K 4 pin analog connector. All cables but one are seated face down both on the PSP and the BT PCB. The 3K 4 pin is face up on these boards (this will be changed, but if your board says consolizer only on the back, the 4 pin goes pins up on the BT PCB)

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Know that none of these connectors are very deep so don't press the cables in to hard. The next three steps will explain the cables locations.

This ribbon cable can be tricky. It needs to be seated all the way to the bottom or far left if looking at it straight on. There is a small circle below the L that denotes pin 1. You want to make sure that the 7 pin connector starts at pin 1. I start with this cable since it can be the hardest to seat correctly.

Here is the 4 pin being seated face up. The conductor lines are facing up. ( This only applies if your BT PCB is green and say consolizer only on the back.)

From left to right the connectors are 14 pin goes to the R or right connector. The 10 pin cable goes to the C or center connector. 

Take the printed bracket and pull the ribbon cables through the back. The bracket and PCB line up with pegs in the base. There is a peg in the top corner and an angle in the opposite corner that line the board up. 

Set the BT mod board aside and get your printed parts. You will need your 4 screws and three printed buttons, and your PSP screws. 

Take your three buttons and place them in the shaped gaps.

Once you have placed all three buttons you can screw in the power port first. You want to slide it into place the round part should sit flush with the back of the printed shell and then it can be screwed into place using one of the black internal PSP screws. 

I tuck the cable length left from the power port under the PCB just make sure that all buttons on the bottom can still be pressed and your cables are not in the way of those. 

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DONT OVER TIGHTEN THESE SCREWS - these are just the right length but they don't bottom out so just a few turns will be enough to keep them in place. Once you feel a little resistance they are set.

The middle section of the case slides down and will align with the bottom perfectly. Once again the power port should be flush on the back side, and there are a few guiding parts that will make sure both parts are aligned.   

Take the 4 included M3 x 20 screws and slide them into place. They should slide down a bit and then when you start turning them you will feel resistance. These screws will bottom out and have lots of support. Tighten until the ends of the screws are sitting flush with the other side of the middle of the case. 

Slide your PSP right against the case and start to connect the cables. I am putting the power in first here but there is no real order for this. Remember the back of the BT PCB has all the ribbon name locations so you can read those if you ever forget which cable goes where. 

Two things to note for the analog cable. 

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•  There is a commonly encountered problem where the BT PCB does not detect an analog stick. If that happens the game you are playing will have the analog stick always being triggered. The first place to look is at your cable and make sure it is seated correctly on both boards. 

• The second note is that the PSP analog ribbon cable has cut outs at the front that let you lock it inplace. Since there on no moving parts we are using a normal flat cable. When you slide into the connector you want to lift the clasp up like shown. Be gentle! once that is up pushing in the ribbon will make the cable want to fold down again. You have to hold it open and slide the cable all the way in. You will know its in when the clasp stands up on its own. You can leave the clasp up like that. Don't try and close it or you will break your clasp.

Each connector is colored and labeled. They do go left to right with the exception of the analog stick being on the far left. Take a look at the picture if you are lost or need to double check your cables. 

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DO NOT CLOSE THE CLASP ON THE 4 PIN ANALOG CONNECTOR.

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The clasp will flip up with the 4 pin cable fully inserted. I broke my clasp when I tried to close it. Just having the cable in place offers enough support due to the tight fit. (Sony produced special hooked ribbons for their analog sticks you can see on your thumbstick how the cable end looks different.) 

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All other connectors should be closed on the ribbons like normal.

The inside wall on the front of the shell has a small part that is made to hold the 3mm LED we included with the kit. If you choose to use this LED slide it into place and bend the legs around the center part while pressing the LED into the cone with tweezers. It should click in and stay in place on its own. 

The PSP will line up with the 4 pegs that match the location of the screw holes on the back of the shell. These posts mirror the front PSP shell posts. The ribbon cables should fold on themselves. Tuck them under as needed.

The placement of the PSP may feel weird. This is due to the plastic on the inside of the shell not being flat at every point. (shown below you could trim this plastic, I have not in all my builds.) The holes line up though so just screw in one of the left holes and then adjust the PSP until you can see the screw post through a hole on the right side. 

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TIP - Its at this point I tend to put two of the four screws in (two corners) and I take it to my set up and test it. Its best to load a game up that you know uses all the PSP buttons, and the analog stick 

I have also trimmed in the top right side as well. As seen below, this will give you the best result but you do not have to if you wish to not change your shell. 

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TIP - Flush cutters are great for this just cut the parts that are sticking up in this corner so they are flat and level with the screw hole. Be carful not to cut the wifi cable. 

The kits will come with 8 magnets. These 2x6 dots will be placed in stacks of two into the holes at the 4 corners of the top part. Push the stacks in with a little force. It should be a tight fit. Make sure you have the top part laying on a flat surface when you push these into place to avoid breaking anything. Each corner gets two magnets. The magnets should stay in all by themselves. 

The 4 corners line up with the flush screws holding the middle to the base of the shell. This lets you cover the AV cable out in the back while sealing the whole case closed.

All kits come with 4 rubber feet that can be placed over the screw holes to cover them up like any good Sony console! Just peel the pads off and place them using the double sided tape already attached.

All shell kits come with the SD card holder. This part lets you insert and remove the SD card with ease. Line up the side with the matching logo or the side with label words if using an aftermarket SD card or adapter. 

Push the card in place with the correct orientation. Its a snug fit so the part doesn't come off to easy. Once that's pushed in you are ready to slide it into place.

I print these so that the top of the shell and the top of the SD card holder are the same texture that way you know which side should be facing up. They should match. It might be tricky to get on your first try but I find it easiest if you keep the top of the SD card held as close to the top of the opening. That should be just the right spot.

This uses the push and lock feature of the PSP letting the holder sit flush with the edge while its in the closed and reading position, but when you would like to remove it you can just press on the holder and it will slide out for you to grab. 

Alright great job! you got it all together and ready to go. Hopefully you ran a test a few steps ago when I suggested to do so. If not then go plug it in and connect a controller. If everything works as intended then you are ready to configure custom button mappings and see what the web app has to offer for using all the features of the BT mod. The link below will take you to the configuration guide the last one!