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PS Placeable 2K build guide

This page will walk you through all you need to know on how to assemble a PS Placeable.  

 

PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL THE FIRMWARE ON THE BT PCB BEFORE STARTING THIS GUIDE. Directions here

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Be careful, any modifications to electronics can cause harm to you or your device. These kits have small parts keep them out of the reach of small children as they could be choking hazards. 

Parts needed 

Ok before we begin lets assume you purchased from us, and that you have followed the disassembly guide leading you to this page next.  All the parts you need for this build are: A PSP, 1 fourteen pin, 2 ten pin, and a custom PSP 2K FFC for the analog stick. The BT PCB V2, 3mm LED (any color you want we give blue ones) four M3x20 screws, eight 2x6mm magnets, top, middle, bottom  printed shell, PCB bracket, (we include a spacer to replace the thumb stick you can always just leave it in though)  3 shell buttons, 4 rubber feet. You will also need some cable for cutting and soldering in the next steps. We do not include loose conductors, feel free to use any that you like. Everything else is included in the kits you can. buy from us.

parts needed.jpg

Lets start with soldering
(skip the next 6 steps if you bought a pre soldered kit.)

We will be cutting the PSP power cable and splicing it to the board. Its important you know which cable is positive and negative. You can use a multimeter or your cable may be labeled already like mine is. Its always best to check though. 

Soldering the power cable.jpg

Cut the power cable in half

We need both ends of the power cable separated. So lets cut at the center. if yours is all black keep track of which side is positive and negative.  

Cut after you check positive and negitive.jpg

Solder wires to each end

Solder wires to all four ends we have cut and stripped. I use heat shrink to seal these joints when I am done. It may be easier to have individual conductor wires instead of keeping them together like i have below on the right.

Extend all four wires.jpg

Heat shrink and get the other ends ready

Once all four cables have been extended we can heat shrink them and tin the other sides getting them ready to solder to the board.

Heat shrink your wires.jpg

Both positive (red) wires are soldered to PWR

Take your two positive wires you will have one connecting to the yellow power in part and the tan power to PSP part. Take the positives from each of these and solder them to the PWR pad next to the micro USB port.

Both postive (red) go to PWR pad.jpg

Both Negitive (brown) wires are soldered to GND

Take the other two wires and solder them to the GND pad below the ESP. Set these wires to the side.  

Both negitive (brown) go to GND pad.jpg

(Optional) - Add an external LED

You can optionally remove the LED from the board and solder wires to an external LED. We will include the LED when you buy with us. use some wire and solder positive to the bottom pad and negative to the top pad.

Optional LED.jpg

Seating ribbon cables

When putting together a 2K we use a custom FFC. This cable will be taped in place first then pressure will be applied either by the thumbstick or the provided spacer.

Custom ribbon cable for 2k builds.jpg

Tape the custom ribbon cable down

Remove the cover from the double sided tape. Place the cable down over the 4 pads. The white lines around the FFC pads should be facing up. 

placment of 2k ribbon cable.jpg

Spacer to hold the ribbon in place

The ribbon cable needs pressure to hold it in place. We accomplish this in two ways. A spacer and a peg inside the base of the Placeable shell. You can also leave the thumb stick in if you would like to. Either way will work. The spacer lines up with the exact spot the thumb stick would be.

replacing the thumb stick to hold pressure on the ribbon cable.jpg

Place the board back in the shell

Slide the PSP board into the shell. make sure you lift the disk drive power and read cables up. then press the board into place we will not be screwing the board in place. You can but the small plastic part that the screw threads to is easy to break.

PSP mounted back into its shell with ribbon cable.jpg

Two 10, and one 14 pin connector locations

From left to right the connectors are L or Left a 10 pin connector, C or center connector this is the second 10 pin connector The 14 pin cable goes to the R or right connector. 

two 10 and 1 14 pin ribbon cable connectors.jpg

Place the bracket over the PCB before connecting the last ribbon cable. 

Slide the bracket down into place over the PCB. make sure to pull the ribbon cables through. You can always cut the bracket above the ESP to slide the cables in and out but I have found it best to leave the bracket as is. 

Screenshot 2024-11-24 at 7.05.49 PM.png

Custom analog FFC

The last ribbon cable goes to the analog connector and can be a bit harder to get into place but the next picture shows how I have my cables all set up.

custom FFC ribbon connector for the analog stick.jpg

Connect the analog ribbon

The two side cables are on top and the bottom cables are under the other two. Now lets get the shell ready.

All ribbon cables connected.jpg

Place the buttons in the base

Take the three PlayStation shaped buttons and place them into the matching slots.

Putting the PS shaped buttons into place.jpg

Screw down power port

Once you have placed all three buttons you can screw in the power port first. You want to slide it into place or just push it straight down. The round part should sit flush with the back and then it can be screwed into place. 

power port screwed in place.jpg

Tuck extra cable length and screw bracket into place

I tuck an extra cable under the PCB. Make sure that all buttons on the bottom can still be pressed and your cables are not in the way of those. I start with the circled screw, under it is a guiding peg to help you line the board up. 

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DONT OVER TIGHTEN THESE SCREWS - these are just the right length but they don't bottom out so just a few turns will be enough to keep them in place. Once you feel a little resistance they are set.

screw the BT board bracket in place using the front shell screws.jpg

Start to connect the cables to the PSP

Slide your PSP right against the case and start to connect the cables. I am putting the power in last here but there is no real order for this. Remember the back of the BT PCB has all the ribbon name locations so you can read those if you forget which cable is which. Below is an image that shows the corresponding locations.

powr cable connected.jpg

A guide to all the connector locations

Each connector is colored and labeled in the picture. They do go left to right with the exception of the analog stick being on the far left and already connected to the 2K board. Take a look at the picture if you are lost or need to double check your cables. 

connecting the ribbon cables to the PSP.jpg

(Optional) - Slide LED into the holder

The inside wall on the front of the shell has a small part that is made to hold the 3mm LED we included with the kit. If you choose to use this LED slide it into place and bend the legs around the center part while pressing the LED into the cone with tweezers. It should stay in place on its own. 

LED in place.jpg

Fold your PSP forward

The PSP should line up perfectly with the 4 pegs that match the location of the screw posts on the front screen. The ribbon cables should fold on themselves and then the PSP can be screwed in place using the 4 shell screws we kept from disassembling the PSP.

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TIP - Its at this point I tend to put two of the four screws in (two corners) and I take it to my set up and test it. Its best to load a game up that you know uses all the PSP buttons, and the analog stick You can also remote into the webapp and test the connections. Click here to open a page with that part of the configuration guide.(not set up just yet)

screw the PSP in place using the front shell screws.jpg

Slide middle into place 

The middle section of the case slides down and will align with the bottom perfectly. Once again the Power port should be flush on the back side, and there are a few guiding parts that will make sure both parts are aligned.   

place middle section.jpg

Flip over and place 4 screws into place. 

Take the 4 included M3 x 20 screws and slide them into place. They should slide down a bit and then when you start turning them you will feel resistance. 

Place screws in the 4 ocrners at the base.jpg

The screws will bottom out

​These screws will bottom out and have lots of support. Tighten until the ends of the screws are sitting flush with the other side of the middle of the case. 

Make sure the 4 corner screws all sit flush with the top and bottom out.jpg

Slide magnets into place

The kits will come with 8 magnets. These 2x6 dots will be placed in stacks of two into the holes at the 4 corners of the top part. Simply push the stack in so that 2 magnets are inside the hole. Doing that for all 4 holes.

 

You may have to apply some force to get them into place. Make sure you have the top resting on a flat surface so you don't brake the thin face if using a full cover top. The magnets will stay in all by themselves. 

Placing magnets in the top shell.jpg

Enjoy the top snapping closed.

The 4 corners line up with the flush screws holding the middle to the base of the shell. This lets you cover the AV cable out in the back while sealing the whole case closed.

Top snapped closed.jpg

Flip one last time to place the feet on

All kits come with 4 rubber feet that can be placed over the screw holes to cover them up like any good Sony console! 

Place feet on the bottom.jpg

The SD card 

All shell kits come with the SD card holder. This part lets you insert and remove the SD card with ease. Line up the side with the matching logo or the side with label words if using an aftermarket SD card or adapter. 

memorry card holder.jpg

Match the textures

I print these so that the top of the shell and the top of the SD card holder are the same texture that way you know which side should be facing up. They should match. 

match the textures.jpg

Push it to click into place

This uses the push and lock feature of the PSP letting the holder sit flush with the edge while its in the closed and reading position, but when you would like to remove it you can just press on the holder and it will slide out for you to grab. 

SD card holder.jpg

You are all done!!! 

Alright great job! you got it all together and ready to go. Hopefully you ran a test a few steps ago when I suggested to do so. If not then go plug it in and connect a controller. If everything works as intended then you are ready to configure custom button mappings and see what the web app has to offer for using all the features of the BT mod. The link below will take you to the configuration guide the last one!

All done.jpg
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